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Photo courtesy DJ Scammell

The Waistcoat

By Douglas James Scammell

Published 11:44 PDT, Fri September 12, 2025

Fashion For Men

When it comes to men’s suit fashion most men purchase a two piece suit, the jacket and the matching pants only. They make the big mistake of bypassing the third piece and that is the matching waistcoat. I used to make that mistake myself, but I’m now a three piece suit guy and the reason is you have so many more different options with your suits. I think the waistcoat really brings the entire suit together giving it a more complete look. Adding a waistcoat (a three piece suit) leaves a memorable first impression whether it’s an important meeting or formal affair. If you want to look your best in any situation you will honestly feel very confident, and comfortable wearing your three piece suit.

Here is just a few examples of some different ways you can wear your three piece suits and waistcoats by mixing a navy suit and a beige suit. For example:

Wear it as matching three piece suit.

Wear the matching jacket and pants and offset the look with wearing the waistcoat from the other suit.

In warm summer months wear just the waistcoat and matching pants.

Wear the matching pant and waistcoat with the jacket from the other suit.

Wear the jacket with the matching waistcoat with the pants from the other suit.

The more three piece suits you have the more options you will have of creating different looks offering much more value and versatility.

There are many different styles of waistcoats available. In the pictures I have two different styles the navy waistcoat is single breasted, and the tan waistcoat is a double breasted waistcoat with a shawl lapel. For some of my favorite suits I have both the single and the double breasted matching waistcoats in the same color and fabric to give one suit two different looks.

Here is a more detailed breakdown of just some of the many different style waistcoats list below:

Single-Breasted Waistcoat: This is the most common style, featuring a single row of buttons and a pointed bottom.

Double-Breasted Waistcoat: This style has two rows of buttons and a straight bottom, often seen in more formal settings.

Horseshoe Waistcoat: Characterized by a low-cut neckline, traditionally worn with dinner suits to showcase the shirt's bib.

Waistcoat with Lapel: A less common style with lapels, similar to a jacket, adding a touch of sophistication.

Photo courtesy DJ Scammell

History

The term waistcoat is used to describe this upper body sleeveless garment that is cut off at waist level of the body in the United Kingdom and many Commonwealth countries. The waistcoat is also known more in north America Canada and the United States as a vest. The waistcoat has been around for centuries and has evolved with many different types of designs.

King Charles II of England in the year of 1666 launched a new fashion in men’s wear for the English. The item was a long piece donned beneath the coat that was meant to be seen. By the 18th century the waistcoat became a symbol of status and refinement among aristocrats and gentleman. For the upper class, waistcoats weren’t just functional but a statement of power and prestige.

In the early 19th century the waistcoat for men was more like a synced corset that was almost skin tight and pulled together with laces in the back. It was around 1850 the style changed from that of a corseted look to a straighter line with less restriction at the waist, so that the waistcoat followed a straighter line up the torso.

By the early to mid-20th century the waistcoat and it significance as status symbol began to wane. It became more functional item to us as a place to store a snazzy pocket watch, Then when the wristwatch came into its own that’s when the waistcoat really began to die off toward the last half of the 20th century.

The three piece suit has been very popular in movies and TV shows throughout many decades from the 1920’s to the present but most notably in the James Bond Series where it made its debut in the classic James Bond movie Goldfinger (1964) where to this day Sean Connery’s grey three piece suit remains one of the most iconic movie suits of all time, and more recently Crazy Stupid Love (2011) staring Ryan Gosling and of course the TV series Suits (2011-2019) staring Gabriel Swann Macht who always wore a three piece suit.

Photo courtesy DJ Scammell

Resurgence

The waistcoat and three piece suit fashion has made a very big comeback into second decade of the 21st century.

Three-piece suits are popular today because they offer a timeless elegance and versatility. The addition of the waistcoat (or vest) elevates the formality and style of the suit, allowing for both sophisticated and more casual looks. This adaptability makes them suitable for various occasions, from formal events like weddings to business meetings.